One of Roswell's most famous restaurants is open again after a long hiatus. Only it's not quite the same. Well, actually it's not at all the same.

Housed in the old Lickskillet Farm, Moksha Indian Restaurant is the proud inheritor of Lickskillet's famous upscale setting.

Mangesh Patel, one of the owners of Moksha, says he's carrying on the tradition started by his predecessor.

"We wanted a real nice sit-down dinner atmosphere here and this is secluded out of metro Atlanta," he said. "This [Roswell] is the only place. It is an upper class area with people who appreciate nicer food and service. I hope they like what we offer."

So far it looks like North Fulton is responding well to Moksha, but for those who haven't yet been, what does it offer?

"We try to mix three things here," said Patel. "We have the best facility. You won't find this kind of setting anywhere in America in an Indian restaurant. There is a gazebo and pavilion outside where you can hold outdoor activities, like weddings or parties. Second, the quality of food and taste of the food is unmatched in Atlanta area. The third part is the service. We want to make sure that every customer is a taken care of."

On those three qualities Patel is striving to be unmatched in the area. Lickskillet has been completely refurbished, making it a comfortable mix of contemporary design and classic touches. The renovations took a full two years, with attention paid to every little detail, from the hardwood bar and numerous stone fireplaces to the quaint gazebo overlooking Foe Killer Creek.

And what is a restaurant without good food? "We try to serve the best quality food, always serving top quality dishes," said Patel. "Our chef is an expert with over 35 years in 5-star restaurants. Also, we don't have a buffet. Many Indian restaurants have a buffet. The quality of food always goes down when you prepare it and it sits. We offer only a la carte food."

One can understand why the Dining Duo, who recently reviewed Moksha, could not stop praising the dishes, calling it "the best Indian food in North Fulton."

Lastly, Patel and his staff know how to take care of their guests. With over 30 years in the hotel business, Patel knows a thing or two about hospitality.

"People need to feel like it's their own place," he said, "They need to feel comforted. We understand that when someone has to drive 25-30 minutes to come here that we make it worth their trip."

A half hour drive? Isn't this place supposed to be in North Fulton? We can thank the City of Roswell Transportation Department for that. Under normal conditions, Moksha would be prime property, located near the intersection of Mansell Road and Old Roswell Road. Of course, those who have driven by there know that it's become a forest of orange construction cones that will likely last for the better part of a year. The only way to get to this hidden gem is to take the long way.

Of course, it's worth the drive.

Valerian is the manager of Moksha and brings with him over eight years of experience. He devised the menu that has already made his restaurant famous.

"In India, the typical menu has dishes from all the different states, different regions, different cultures and tastes. Even the spices are a little different," Valerian said. "Food is picked from all over the country. [In America] typical Indian restaurants specialize in either southern, or northern or Punjabi (northern India and Pakistan). Moksha has them from all over."

Because of this eclectic selection of traditional dishes, there is food served at Moksha that patrons may never have had before. One such dish is the Paneer Pasanda, which Valerian says is popular in India but almost unknown in the West. This dish is homemade cheese stuffed with vegetables in a cream sauce.

So if you're in the mood for high-quality Indian food that can't be had anywhere else, or a casual dining experience to end the week on or even just to see how one of Roswell's iconic restaurants has changed since it closed, come see Moksha. It's worth it.

Moksha serves lunch and dinner daily. They are located at 1380 Old Roswell Road in Roswell. For information and menu (as well as directions through the construction), visit www.mokshaatl.com.