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August 22nd, 2009
John Breech / Staff

Sugo's Review


Sugo's Review

First Impression


John: I think we can all agree that any restaurant review that starts off with Copsey almost dying has to be a good one. As much as I’d love too, I won’t spoil the details. If you want the Copsey “Near Death” story, you’re going to have to read his first impression. Anyway, back to Sugo. Let me admit that I loved this place before I stepped in the door. Sugo has embraced new media like no restaurant we’ve been too. I wanted to check out Sugo’s menu, so I went to their web site. Well, apparently a web site wasn’t enough for this hybrid Italian-Greek family owned restaurant because they have a BLOG too. After reading everything the site and blog had to offer, I felt like I was going to be invited to the Castellucci’s next family reunion. The Castellucci’s of course are the family that owns the family owned restaurant. During our two hours in the restaurant, I think I had a conversation with everyone in the family (By my count, this includes Stephanie, Nancy and Federico.) The hominess of this place cannot be overstated; I really didn’t want to leave. However, as there were no cots set up, it became clear that to me you’re not allowed to sleep there.


Copsey: My tale of the week starts with me driving downtown on GA 400 when a small ladder (like the type used in swimming pools) flies out of the dumptruck in front of me and smacks my car right in the windshield. At highway speeds. Needless to say my day was pretty much shot. Until, that is, I heard we’d be eating at Sugo that night. I’ve been to the Sugo that sits near Roswell High School and it’s a pleasant place with great food. This time we went to the one called “Clocktower Place,” on South Atlanta Street. The Mediterranean feel to the place is noticeable even before you enter the restaurant – there’s a small patio that just screams “Hey, I’m from Italy. Come join me and relax.” While we didn’t sit on the patio, the inside (and staff) was just as welcoming.


John: A
Copsey: A


Appetizers


John:
For the first part of the meal, we ordered the Sardinian Flatbread off the summer specials menu. For you geography enthusiasts out there, Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean and it’s located off the coast of Italy. The flatbread is topped with a prosciutto de parma ham and ricotta cheese that steals the show. It’s light, it’s crispy and it won’t fill you up. We also ordered the Meatball al Sugo. According to the menu’s description, the AJC featured this item in their review once. If there is one thing Copsey and I have learned, it’s that if an appetizer is good enough for the AJC, it’s good enough for us. The meatball was the size of a baseball (it had nothing else in common with a baseball), it was served piping hot and it was served with tomatoes and caramelized onions. It was fantastic.


Copsey: I was really afraid the flatbread would be just another word for “pizza.” Happily, I was wrong, since this was an appetizer that really won’t fill you up, just get your taste buds flared up for the main course – which is what an appetizer should do. The meatball is definitely a must for anyone visiting Sugo. Everything about it, from the meat to the sauce is just great. 


John: A-
Copsey: A

Sugo

Location:
408 S. Atlanta St
Roswell
770-641-9131
sugorestaurant.com


Price Range: Apps $3.95- $8.95
Entrees $10.96- $Mkt price


Entrées


John: All Copsey could talk about all night was his near death experience and how his dinner entrée, lobster spaghetti, was going to be so good. The lobster spaghetti wasn’t my favorite dish at the table, but it was certainly presented with the most flare. Sugo cuts the meat of the lobster for you (Trying to get all of the meat out can be quite stressful) and then serves the lobster shell with the spaghetti so that you know you’re not eating canned Kroger lobster. And in case you think you are, take one bite and after the lobster melts in your mouth, you won’t be questioning where it came from. We also ordered Lamb Ribs. The ribs are tossed with a special BBQ sauce that owner Federico Castelluci created himself. When I say ‘special’ BBQ sauce, I actually mean tastiest BBQ sauce ever. The recipe is guarded like the Colonel’s secret chicken recipe, but we did learn that two of the 30 ingredients are coca-cola and horseradish. I know that doesn’t sound like a great combination, but there are 28 other ingredients and the final result is a perfect medley of mouth-watering flavor. We also ordered Pernice’s chicken. This was the most generous chicken portion I’ve seen in a long time, I think a family of four could have shared this. The chicken is served with almost anything you can conjure up in your head: prosciutto de parma ham, carmelized onions, dates, spinach, provolone cheese and pecorino romano, just to name a few things. In case you’re wondering how big this chicken is, I took my portion home, I have been eating it for dinner for the last two days and there is still some left.


Copsey: As soon as I saw the lobster special I knew I wanted it. A giant, fresh lobster served in a spaghetti with something called “peppercini,” which I took to be whatever added a hint of spice to the meal. The claw meat is tossed into the spaghetti and the meat itself is still inside the lobster, which has been conveniently cut in two, making it both easily accessed and nicely presentable. I was amazed and that was one dish where, sadly, we did not have any leftovers.


John: A-
Copsey: A


Dessert


John: If you like tiramisu, Sugo has some that you’ll enjoy. But I’m not going to spend any time talking about it because I want to spend all of my time talking about the Dream Bomba. When I sleep at night, I always dream of two things: that a sequel to Divine Secrets of the Ya-Ya Sisterhood will be made and that I will someday find a dessert the size of a softball that’s made of peanut butter gelato and milk chocolate. Well that day is here, for the dessert at least, I think the movie is still on hold. Sugo takes its incredibly tasty peanut butter gelato (obviously it tastes like peanut butter, but it’s not so strong that you think you’re eating it out of the jar), then they dip the gelato in chocolate and what they create is the most amazing thing since Michelangelo carved David.


Copsey: Tiramisu is something that Italians should know how to make. Thankfully, they got it right at Sugo. Creamy and coffee-y and mushy – perfect. My ambivalence toward peanut butter has already been made known, so I was iffy on ordering a Dream Bomba over a “regular” Bomba (which is vanilla gelato instead of peanut butter). The dessert was still very tasty, especially with the surprise cherry filling at the center of the Bomba.


John: A+ (Three A+’s in Dining Duo history from me and two in the last two weeks, crazy I say)
Copsey: A


Final Impression


John: Here’s an idea, if you have a girlfriend, wife, fiancé or significant other and there’s a birthday, anniversary, holiday or Sunday coming up, take them to Sugo. The mixture of Italian and Greek food means that there’s something on the menu for everyone. It’s the perfect date place. They have an extensive wine menu, seasonal drink specials and you probably won’t have to take out a bank loan before you show up. However, Copsey might have to get a bank loan to fix his car.


Copsey: To hammer home the “date night” impression, the whole time we were there, there were only couples, celebrating whatever it is couples celebrate; there was only one party, a group of women celebrating a birthday. No kids. No partying teens. Just adults having a good time – it’s been a while since I’ve been to a grown-up restaurant! Also, before I forget, be sure to ask about the specials. They seem to have many, not just entrees, but desserts and drinks as well. The specials change, so there’s always a reason to come back to Sugo.


John: A
Copsey: A

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